So we were down south in Margs for a surfing trip. Nice big group of us, ranging from beginner to pretty darn decent, stand up and bodyboarders..
Our trip coincided with Taj’s Small Fries Comp at Inji. Sucked partly, because there was triple over head there, and we weren’t able to surf it.
Got to watch some fairly talented groms though.
I pretty much caught most of my waves at Smiths that weekend. Other spots we sussed and surfed was Supertubes, 3 bears, Inji (but the trips were gone), rabbits and we checked out Lighthouse.
So for the first sesh, I went out with some of the girls (beginner standups), i took my mini mal, as well as my board of choice, an old eighties morey mach 4.
The waves were so suited for me, rather than them, and I was in my element.
Not one of the girls caught any waves, whereas I was literally paddling out, catching one, paddling out etc etc..
Anyways, hunger struck, and we headed into town.
Now the whole time 2 girls in particular were trying to meet Mick Fanning, and get a photo with him, so they did what any sensible person would do, was periodically check his twitter. Turns out the day they were trying to meet him, was the day he didn’t tweet.
I thought this was hilarious, so when the two girls went out, my friend and I were discussing this obsession and were laughing about it. We were standing in an empty parking space, attempting to cross the road, but saw a 4wd approaching, so we stayed where we were.
Turns out the driver wanted our spot, and failed to indicate, and literally nearlly ran us over.
We had to jump out the way. We quickly crossed the road and looked back to see who it was.
To say our two friends, didn’t believe us, until we had gotten comfirmation from the regional director, would have been an understatement.
But Jess and I found him!
That particular day was amazing.
Headed out with the boys in the arvo so I could hit some bigger waves, and Falcon and I both managed to score sneaky barrels. Sneaky, because 99.8% of the waves weren’t barreling.
Just annoyed that I got cleaned up on a huge wave in the middle of a big set, that my leash came off, and my board pierced me up and under my rib and in my ovary (which I had just gotten out of hospital for, two weeks prior).
Can’t wait for the next surf trip.
Heading to Gero to hit some reefies in 2 weekends time 🙂
Hopefully I’ll chuck some groms in the back of my 4wd and we’ll have a grand ol time!